I made this giant at the spur of the moment when my daughter wanted a large basket. She gave me a list of what she wanted and I thought I’ll work something out. It’s made with a lot of love and I named my first pattern after her.
This pattern is adaptable to different sizes and can be applied into other kind of works like totes or pen holders etc. If you have a large stash of scrap yarn you can even make a colourful version!
I would like to thank my team of testers. It’s a huge learning curve and I am very thankful that they are willing to take the time to work along with me even though I’m a noob. Thank you Kaz Tung, Christina Loh, Audrea Ling, Ling Teo, and Kelvin Watt! (In case you are wondering why I have left and right of almost everything visual it’s because I’m a left handed crocheter! I realized I had to flip almost everything visual to make it easier to understand, hopefully to all levels.
This pattern works bottom up and predominately uses a stitch called the knit stitch. It looks knitted but it’s actually crochet. READ EVERYTHING BEFORE STARTING.
Skill level : MODERATELY SKILLED CROCHETER
What you need to know :
- You’ll be learning a new stitch called the knit stitch. Crochet too tight or with an inappropriate hook size and you’ll be struggling to ‘stab’ your hook into the ‘V’ of the previous row stitch. See my videos below to see how I crochet the knit stitch, there should be a comfortable amount of space inserting the hook into the ‘V’ space. One of my dear testers ended up with a blister and broken crochet hook! :p
- You’ll be working with 2 or maybe 4 or more strands of different coloured yarn. Decide how you want to work the strands else you may have a tangling mess of yarn.
- You’ll need to know how to interpret a graph as it is customisable and not drawn to scale. ( First square at the bottom corner is not the first stitch!) The essential parts like the main images and spacing is minimally drawn but sufficient to work out the rest.
- You need to use the graph AND written instructions as they go together on where to crochet the little hearts or to do a colour change.
- You’ll need to try to maintain a consistent tension else you’ll have a wobbly piece of container. The texture of the basket should be a little stiff and be able to hold its own shape.
- You’ll need to plan the graph and handle placement prior to start, as the graph consists of three big hearts. Ideally, you should have one handle above the first big heart while the other handle is between the next second and third big hearts. As the entire pattern is customisable, the handle placement count may be different so PREPLAN the placements if you want it to look perfect!
You’ll need :
(T shirt yarn. I used about 3.5kg worth. That was 14 balls x 250g for me)
5 balls x 250g of purple t shirt yarn (Colour A)
5 balls x 250g of pink t shirt yarn (Colour B)
3 balls x 250g of cream t shirt yarn (Colour C)
1 ball x 250g of green t shirt yarn (Colour D)
10mm crochet hook or any hook size that matches the yarn weight of your choice.
Gauge is not crucial.
mc – Magic Circle
SC – Single Crochet
ss – Slip Stitch
KS – Knit Stitch (Insert hook into the ‘V’ of the previous row stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on the hook.) Short clips below to illustrate this.
st – stitch
sts – stitches
BLSC – Back Loop Single Crochet
Note to remember.
Always slip stitch to the first stitch to end a round and chain 1. Chain 1 does not count as a stitch.
Row 1 – To start, using A, mc, 6 SC into the loop. ss into the first SC, chain 1. (6 sts)
(Alternatively, you can do a slip knot, chain 2, SC into the first chain 6 times.)
*With t shirt yarn being used, my best start for a flat base was 6 stitches. Anything else became a wobbly mess. DO NOT USE SC after this part to do a regular flat round increase if you want a FIRM base. The starting 6sc works on most yarn weights. My heart graph was written for a 84 sts round so you may have to modify a bit if your stitch number is different due to different starting stitch or different final row base count.
Increase to form the base (A normal increase method would result in a irregular circle. I wanted a really circular, roundish base so the increases are done in the order below. As long as you are doing the increase away from the previous row’s increase that works too. If you are new to the knit stitch, you may struggle to ‘stab’ your hook into the ‘V’ as you work the round. Switch the hook size or crochet looser or watch the tension. You may have to work on the stitch a few more rounds to find your ‘groove’. )
(Refer to my video on Instagram or Youtube. Same as below, on how to do Knit Stitch)
Row 2 – (2 KS into the first st)*, repeat * 5 times till end. (12 sts)
Row 3 – (KS into first st. 2 KS into the next st.)*, repeat * 5 times till end. (18 sts)
Row 4 – (2 KS into the first st, KS into the next 2 sts)*, repeat * 5 times till end. (24 sts)
Notice the increase is not done on the previous row’s increase? You will space the increase evenly throughout each row away from/middle of the previous row’s increase. This will create a very round circle instead of a round with 6 obvious points.
Row 5 – (KS into first 3 sts, 2 KS into the next st)*, repeat * 5 times till end. (30 sts)
Row 6 – (2 KS into the first st, KS into the next 4 sts)*, repeat * 5 times till end. (36 sts)
Row 7 – (KS into first 5 sts, 2 KS into the next st)* , repeat * 5 times till end. (42 sts)
Row 8 – (2 KS into the first st, KS into the next 6 sts)*, repeat * 5 times till end. (48 sts)
Row 9 – (KS into first 7 sts, 2 KS into the next st)* , repeat * 5 times till end. (54 sts)
Row 10 – (2 KS into the first st, KS into the next 8 sts)*, repeat * 5 times till end. (60 sts)
Row 11 – (KS into first 9 sts, 2 KS into the next st)* , repeat * 5 times till end. (66 sts)
Row 12 – (2 KS into the first st, KS into the next 10 sts)*, repeat * 5 times till end. (72 sts)
Row 13 – (KS into first 11 sts, 2 KS into the next st)* , repeat * 5 times till end. (78 sts)
Row 14 – (2 KS into the first st, KS into the next 12 sts)*, repeat * 5 times till end. (84 sts)
(15 inches / 38 cm across)
I stopped at row 14 but you can add or reduce rows at your preference. If you want to create a repetitive graphic pattern like mine, make sure the final stitch count is in multiples of 4. (The spacing of the little hearts is most eye appealing to me.) Or can be divided into the number that works with the design you have in mind)
Now you should have a flat round base! 🙂 Once you’re very sure about the size of the base you can weave the end in. With t shirt yarn, I’ll use a smaller hook to help or using just fingers to push it round the loops works too.
Now the base is done, you will be working upwards to create the height of the container. It will be 84 sts on each row all the way till end. If your number changed it means you’ve missed or added a stitch somewhere. The ‘back’ of the base will now be facing the top as you work. I did not add a 2nd yarn till Row 8 but if you want a firm texture throughout, add the 2nd yarn and work over it from now onwards or if you want to jump to row 8 and form the little hearts it’ll work too. Consistent tension is crucial if you don’t want a wobbly basket. HOLD and try not to pull the unworked yarn too much as you crochet.
Row 1 – BLSC into the same st, BLSC around.
Row 2 to 7 – KS all the way around, slip stitch with colour B, chain 1. (You can refer to the graph from Row 2 onwards, and repeat the graph from midpoint to end to form 3 big hearts in a round)
Now, there will be 2 rows of small purple hearts in alternating order with a lot of pink. Crochet over the unworked yarn, hold and try not to pull too much to avoid a wobbly shaped basket.
Row 8 – (Using color B, 3 KS into 3 sts. KS into the next st, pick up colour A, yarn over with colour B to finish the st)*, repeat * till end.
Row 9 – Using colour B, KS into 1 st, (KS into the next st, pick up colour A, yarn over with colour B to finish the st, KS into the next 3 sts)*, repeat * to end with KS into the last 2 sts.
(cut color A and fasten off)
Row 10 – KS with color B around to end.
Note* (The graph is not drawn to scale! 1st square on the corner is not the 1st stitch as mentioned) Depending on where you place the big hearts, use the graph below to design the basket. A solo single square would be the little hearts. If you need help on color changing yarn on the big heart, at the last step of working a stitch use the color that should be in the next square to pull through the 2 loops. There’s many examples on Youtube if you still need a visual guide.
You’ll reach Row 35 , Row 36 would be color D, green. (Height : 18.5 inches / 47 cm)
Note : 3 big hearts should be formed away from the start and end of a row.
The next 2 rows is the formula of the handle. Don’t work it literally till you checked the big hearts placement. Most ideal positioning is to place one handle right on top of the big heart and the other handle between the other 2 big hearts. You should have 32 ks sts, 10 chains and skipped sts, 32 ks sts, 10 chains and skipped sts to make the handles. If you’re making a larger/smaller piece or using your own graph, your first st and last st may be anywhere between the formula sts. If you are new to crocheting, don’t fret, calculate and find that perfect placement for your work.
Row 37 – Work 16 KS, chain 10, skip 10 sts, 32 KS across, chain 10, skip 10 sts, 16 KS.
Row 38 – Work 16 KS, 10 SC over chain, 32 KS, 10 SC over chain, 16 KS.
You can repeat Row 38 if you find the handle too thin.
Row 39 – SS across the front of the sts all the way around. ( I didn’t want to cut the yarn so this is what I did. Lift the hook and reinsert from the front to back, pull the yarn to the front to start) This edging helps to stiffen the handle, you can use a different material like a ribbon to loop around it or decorate it with pompoms too.
Finished! Weave all the ends in. Now you have a cute basket of hearts! 🙂
This pattern is completely adjustable, I don’t anticipate many would make the same 3.5kg giant basket like me that’s why I rewrote to a free size pattern. Have fun coming up with your uniquely sized basket!
Work by my dear friend, tester Kaz Tung. She’s a crochet magician, she makes everything look gorgeous! (This was before the handle part was finalised. I have since rewritten the handle formula so you can align the big hearts on or between the handles.) Kaz made a tote using the same pattern which is definitely more workable and less intimidating than my crochet giant lol. She used double strand Stylecraft Special DK and 7mm hook. Colours in Duck Egg, Clematis, Stone and White.
If you’ve used the pattern in your own way do use the hashtag #charlottesbasketofhearts on Instagram! I’ll love to see them! 🙂
Thank you so much for visiting my site!